Traditional Foods in Oaxaca

Oaxaca’s varied climate that allows for a wide variety of foods to be grown and produced throughout the state, along with the rich diversity of Indigenous cultures, have helped to make it one of the food capitals of Mexico - and there are so many different foods to try. I have highlighted some of the most famous traditional foods and drinks below.

Perhaps the most famous dish in Oaxaca is mole negro. If you saw my video on Puebla, you know that mole poblano is a complex sauce made with chocolate and several other ingredients and often served with chicken or turkey. Mole negro (black mole) is very similar and is the most popular traditional mole in Oaxaca. There are also six other kinds of traditional mole that are popular in Oaxaca, including rojo (red), amarillo (yellow), verde (green), coloradito (between yellow and red), manchamanteles (reddish with sweet ancho), and chichilo (dark and most complex and subtle) moles. There are several restaurants that offer samplers of many or all of these seven moles such as Los Pacos (most recommended), Hierba Dulce (vegetarian), and Los Danzantes (high-end).

Enmoladas are basically Oaxaca’s version of enchiladas, involving corn tortillas with various fillings and covered in sauce. In this case, enmoladas are usually served with chicken or cheese (either as filling or final topping) and drowned in delicious mole negro. Enmoladas are a popular breakfast item that you can find at markets. It was one of my favourite dishes in Oaxaca and I ate it countless times for breakfast, lunch and dinner during my month-long stay. Cabuche, a popular restaurant located on Hidalgo Street, makes super delicious chicken or cheese enmoladas. Try them!

Tamales are popular throughout Mexico. What makes tamales Oaxaqueños unique is that they are made with chicken and mole negro and wrapped in banana leaves instead of a corn husk. I recommend trying one of these at one of the food stalls in the Mercado 20 de Noviembre. I ate them frequently from the food stall named “Comedor Tipico La Abuelita.” It takes a few times to figure out how to unwrap them properly, but once you get the hang of it, these tamales are easy to eat and super delicious.

Oaxacan cheese, also known as “quesillo”, is a delicious stringy cheese featured in many foods found within and outside of Oaxaca. A similar process used to make mozzarella is used to make quesillo. It would be nearly impossible for you to visit Oaxaca and not try quesillo unless you were trying to avoid it for dietary reasons. It is ubiquitous in the state of Oaxaca and very delicious!

Tlayudas are often described as Oaxacan pizza and traditionally prepared with fried or toasted tortillas and Oaxacan cheese, refried beans, and various other toppings such as chopped cabbage, lettuce, sliced avocado, meats and/or other ingredients. They are popular as street food in Oaxaca. Be ready to roll up your sleeves and eat this delicious street food with your hands. One of my favourites that can be ordered in a variety of ways. You can find them everywhere in Mercado 20 de Noviembre. The restaurant, Cabuche, also makes great thayadas and they are served with a big smile.

Memelas are another popular street food, made with fried or toasted corn masa topped with various ingredients as requested, such as refried beans, cheese, meat, vegetables and salsas. The corn masa base is thicker and more break-like compared to other street foods such as Tlayudas with a crunchy fried or toasted tortilla base. Memelas are simple and delicious - definitely give them a try! You can find these at many street food stalls around the historic centre as well as in Mercado 20 de Noviembre.

Empanada de amarillo is another popular street food dish in Oaxaca. Empanadas are enjoyed in many Latin American countries and can be made with different fillings, but these empanadas in Oaxaca are made with a specific set of ingredients – shredded chicken and mole amarillo (yellow). A great place to try these for only 50 pesos a piece is at a very busy street food stall called “Empanadas del Carmen” located at the corner of Jesus Carranza and Manuel Garcia Vigil. The ladies cook them to order right in front of you and they are super delicious! Be prepared to wait in line!

Chapulines are toasted grasshoppers, a popular pre-hispanic source of protein that come in many different flavours, such as chili, lemon, salty, garlic, or simple toasted - and also a popular ingredient in tlayudas, tacos, quesadillas and memelas. I have to admit, trying chapulines was not something I was super keen on doing and had to work myself up to it. The thought of eating a grasshopper was mouthwatering in all the wrong ways for me. However, once I got my head around it, these little critters tasted better than I expected. For me, they tasted mainly like their seasoning and their texture was not that bad - though my brain could not relax enough for me to truly enjoy them as a regular snack. Be brave and give them a try!

Tejate is a traditional pre-hispanic drink made from corn and cocoa. Personally, I did not like this drink very much. For me, it had a very distinctive and lingering aftertaste. I preferred the chocolate drinks that you can find at the Mayodomo outlets around the city (the best one is located next to the zocalo). But don’t let my picky taste buds prevent you from trying it for yourself. Many locals and visitors love this traditional drink. You can find women preparing this drink by hand on many street corners in the historic centre, particularly near the main plaza.

Mezcal is a complex alcoholic beverage made from many different varieties of agave plants. The Nahuatle word “mezcal” means “cooked agave”. Technically, Tequila is one type of mezcal that is made only from the blue agave found in certain regions of Mexico in order to be called tequila, with the State of Jalisco being the most prominent region of tequila production. However, there are more than 30 other varieties of agave plants, found in Oaxaca and other parts of Mexico, that are used to make mezcal.

These mezcals are also protected by a Denomination of Origin which specifies the regions in Mexico where they can be produced, with Oaxaca being the most prominent region of mezcal production. Oaxaca State accounts for over 70 percent of total mezcal production in Mexico. Many different varieties of mezcals are produced in Oaxaca, and each has a different flavour profile depending on a number of factors, such as the type of agave plant used, production method, and aging process.

Other factors that can influence the diverse range of flavour profiles of mezcals include soil, climate, altitude, and growing region. Some producers also infuse their mezcal with different ingredients such as local herbs, fruits, chicken, turkey, or even insects. The diversity of flavour profiles is boundless, and Oaxaca is the best place in Mexico to sample a wide range of mezcals.

I highly recommend doing a mezcal tasting in one of the many mezcalerias found throughout Oaxaca city. I experienced a tasting at Mezcalogia, which was super informative and fun. Many of their mezcals are sourced from local artisanal producers and can only be purchased locally - making the experience extra special. There are many other options for mezcal tastings so be sure to explore the mezcalerias, ask questions and have fun! You can also visit a mezcal distillery to see how mezcal is produced.